Cabrera 2025: The Prison Island That Became Paradise

The Island Where 5,000 Men Died (And Nature Won)

At 6:15am, our boat slides out of Colònia de Sant Jordi harbor into the pre-dawn Mediterranean. The captain, Joan, whose grandfather was born on Cabrera when it was still inhabited, points southeast into the darkness. “Ten kilometers,” he says in Mallorquín-accented Spanish. “Forty minutes. Same distance as swimming from Alcatraz to San Francisco. Except here, the currents kill you.”

As the sun rises behind us, illuminating the 19 islands and islets of the Cabrera Archipelago, Joan tells me the story nobody mentions in the tourist brochures. Between 1809 and 1814, Napoleon’s defeated army from the Battle of Bailén – 9,000 French prisoners – were abandoned here without shelter, food, or water. Within five years, 5,000 were dead. The survivors ate rats, lizards, and allegedly, each other.

“My grandfather found bones in the caves until the 1940s,” Joan says, cutting the engine as we enter the protected waters. “Human bones. Now look at it.”

What I’m looking at: water so clear I can see individual fish at 20 meters depth. Posidonia meadows waving like underwater forests. A pod of bottlenose dolphins surfacing 50 meters away. Eleonora’s falcons diving for fish. And absolutely no sign that this was once hell on earth.

This is Cabrera in 2025: a Maritime-Terrestrial National Park so pristine that species extinct elsewhere in the Mediterranean are returning. An archipelago where humans failed so spectacularly that we finally learned to leave it alone. A place that receives just 500 visitors daily (by law), making it possibly the most exclusive destination in the Balearics – not by price, but by principle.

The Accidental Paradise

Cabrera’s preservation is an accident of horror. After the French prisoners died, nobody wanted the islands. Too small for agriculture, too isolated for development, too haunted by history. The Spanish military claimed it in 1916 for target practice, accidentally preserving it from tourism. When they left in 1991, environmentalists convinced the government to declare it a National Park.

“We protected Cabrera because nobody wanted it,” admits Dr. Jorge Moreno, the park’s marine biologist. “The military kept people away for 75 years. The prison camp gave it a reputation. Bad history created perfect preservation.”

The numbers are staggering:

• 516 plant species (20 endemic)
• 206 bird species (including Europe’s largest colony of Eleonora’s falcons)
• 87 species of fish (many found nowhere else in the Balearics)
• 1 species thought extinct: the monk seal, spotted again in 2020

Cabrera’s historic fortress: Built to defend the islands, this stone structure stands as a testament to centuries of Mediterranean history.

What Makes Cabrera Different

Every Mediterranean island claims to be “unspoiled.” Cabrera actually is. Here’s why:

No Private Property: The entire archipelago is state-owned. No hotels, no houses, no development. Ever.

Visitor Limits: 500 people per day maximum. 300 in July-August. 200 in protected zones. When the quota fills, that’s it.

No Overnight Stays: Except for 12 military/park personnel and boats with special permits (50 per year maximum).

No Infrastructure: One tiny bar/restaurant. One museum. One gift shop. No ATM, no wifi, no phone signal in most areas.

Total Protection: Swimming allowed in two beaches only. Anchoring in designated zones only. Walking on marked paths only. Touch nothing, take nothing, leave nothing.

“Cabrera isn’t trying to be exclusive,” explains park director Maria Vidal. “We’re trying to let it exist. The limits aren’t about creating scarcity – they’re about preventing destruction.”

Getting There: The Gatekeeper System

The Only Way: Authorized Boats

You cannot reach Cabrera independently. Every visitor must arrive on authorized vessels with permits issued months in advance. The system is deliberately restrictive.

From Colònia de Sant Jordi (Main departure point):

• Distance: 10km (45 minutes)
• Companies: Excursions a Cabrera, Mar Cabrera
• Frequency: 2-3 daily in summer, 3 weekly in winter
• Price: €45-65 adult, €25-35 child

From Porto Petro

• Distance: 18km (75 minutes)
• Companies: Marcabrera
• Frequency: Daily in summer only
• Price: €55-75 adult, €30-40 child

Private Yacht (With permit):

• Permit required: Apply 6 months in advance
• Anchoring: 50 buoys available, reservation mandatory
• Cost: €35-200/night depending on boat size
• Maximum stay: 1-2 nights (extended to 7 for special permits)

The Booking Reality

July-August boats sell out in March. Easter week: February. Weekends May-September: weeks in advance. The “spontaneous day trip” doesn’t exist April-October.

“People arrive in Colònia expecting to buy tickets at the port,” laughs Captain Joan. “In August? I tell them to try again next year.”

What You’ll Actually See: The Restricted Paradise

The Standard Tour (What 90% Experience)

Most commercial tours follow the same pattern:

9:00am: Depart Colònia de Sant Jordi 9:45am: Arrive Cabrera port 10:00am: Free time (museum, bar, or immediate castle hike) 12:00pm: Boat to swimming spot (usually S’Espalmador or Platja de s’Empalmador) 1:30pm: Lunch on boat or beach 2:30pm: Visit Sa Cova Blava (Blue Cave) if sea conditions permit 3:30pm: Return journey 4:15pm: Arrive Colònia de Sant Jordi

“It’s enough to see Cabrera but not enough to understand it,” admits guide Carmen Ferrer. “We show the highlights, but the magic needs more time.”

The Castle: 72 Meters of History

The 14th-century castle dominates Cabrera’s skyline. Built in 1410 after pirates kidnapped the entire population, it’s a 20-minute climb (172 steps, no shade) rewarding you with 360-degree views of the archipelago.

What you see from the top:

• All 19 islands of the archipelago
• The Tramuntana mountains of Mallorca
• Mediterranean so clear you can see underwater topography
• Eleonora’s falcons nesting in the cliffs (April-October)
• The monument to French prisoners (a sobering reminder)

“People expect more from the castle,” says park ranger Antonio. “It’s just stone walls and views. But what views.”

Sa Cova Blava: The Blue Cave Phenomenon

The Blue Cave is Cabrera’s Instagram moment. When sunlight enters at the right angle (11am-2pm), the water glows electric blue. It’s genuinely spectacular. It’s also:

• Often inaccessible due to waves
• Crowded when accessible (4 boats maximum = 120 people)
• Brief (15-minute stop maximum)
• Impossible to photograph properly

“The cave is beautiful but overrated,” confesses Captain Joan. “People expect Capri. It’s nice, but the real magic is the underwater meadows nobody photographs.”

Cabrera’s lighthouse: A beacon guiding ships through these protected waters, standing sentinel over the National Park’s pristine archipelago.

The Beaches (All Two of Them)

Public swimming is restricted to two areas:

Platja de s’Empalmador

• Small beach near the port
• Only shade on the island (4 trees)
• Rocky entry, shallow water
• Convenient but uninspiring

Cala Santa Maria

• Larger beach, better sand
• Boat access only
• No shade whatsoever
• Beautiful but burns

“People expect Caribbean beaches,” says Carmen. “These are nice but nothing special. The magic is underwater.”

The Underwater Paradise: Why Divers Weep

The Marine Reserve Effect

Since 1991, fishing has been banned. Anchoring restricted. Boats limited. The result: marine biodiversity unmatched in the Mediterranean.

What thrives here:

• Groupers the size of coffee tables (up to 50kg)
• Barracuda schools of 200+ individuals
• Octopuses that don’t hide from divers
• Moray eels in every crevice
• Eagle rays gliding over posidonia meadows
• Loggerhead turtles (increasingly common)
• Dolphins (resident pod of 30-40)
• Monk seals (one confirmed sighting 2020, more suspected)

“Diving Cabrera is like diving the Mediterranean 100 years ago,” says instructor Pablo Martinez from Mallorca Diving. “Fish aren’t afraid. They’re curious. A grouper followed me for 20 minutes last week.”

The Posidonia Meadows

The real treasure isn’t the fish – it’s the Posidonia oceanica seagrass. Cabrera has the Mediterranean’s healthiest meadows:

• 7,000 hectares of underwater forest
• Some plants are 100,000 years old (seriously)
• Produces more oxygen than Amazon rainforest (per hectare)
• Filters water to exceptional clarity
• Nursery for hundreds of species

“Posidonia is why the water is so clear,” explains Dr. Moreno. “It’s also why we’re so strict. One anchor can destroy centuries of growth.”

Cabrera’s fortress from another angle: The historic stone walls that have protected these islands for over 600 years.

The Dark History Nobody Discusses

The French Prisoners: 1809-1814

After Napoleon’s army surrendered at Bailén, 9,000 French prisoners were shipped to Cabrera with minimal supplies, expected to be collected “soon.” Nobody came for five years.

What happened:

• No shelter except caves
• Monthly supply ship (often “forgot” to come)
• Prisoners ate lizards, rats, seagulls, grass
• Built rafts to escape (all drowned or were shot)
• Cannibalism (disputed but probable)
• 5,000 died from starvation, disease, despair

“The monument says 3,500 died,” Joan tells me, pointing to the obelisk on Illa dels Conills. “My grandfather said the real number was higher. They stopped counting.”

In 1814, survivors were finally repatriated. Of 9,000 men, fewer than 3,600 returned to France. The Spanish government has never formally apologized.

The Military Years: 1916-1991

The Spanish military used Cabrera for:

• Submarine detection base
• Artillery target practice
• Chemical weapons testing (allegedly)
• “Survival training” (abandoning soldiers for weeks)

“The military saved Cabrera by accident,” admits park director Vidal. “They kept civilians away while everywhere else was developed. Bad for them, good for nature.”

The Pirate History

Before the prison, before the military, Cabrera was a pirate base. Barbary corsairs used the hidden coves to ambush merchant ships. In 1405, they raided Cabrera and kidnapped the entire population (about 50 people) to sell as slaves in North Africa.

The castle was built in response, but pirates continued using the outer islands until the 18th century. Local legend says treasure remains hidden in the caves. The park service says people searching for it destroy archaeological sites.

Practical Reality: What They Don’t Tell You

The Comfort Issue

There’s one restaurant/bar: Cantina de Cabrera. Menu:

• Paella: €18 (frozen, microwaved)
• Sandwich: €8 (basic)
• Beer: €4
• Water: €3
• Ice cream: €4

“It’s not about the food,” the owner laughs. “It’s the only food. You want better? Bring your own.”

The Facilities

• Toilets: 2 locations (port and museum)
• Shade: Almost none
• Water fountains: None (bring 2L per person minimum)
• First aid: Basic kit on ranger station
• Phone signal: Sporadic at best
• ATM: None
• Wifi: None

The Rules (Seriously Enforced)

• Stay on marked paths (€200 fine for violations)
• No collecting anything (€500-3,000 fine)
• No feeding animals (€200 fine)
• No drones (€1,000 fine)
• No camping (€1,000 fine)
• No loud music (€200 fine)
• Swimming in designated areas only (€200 fine)

“We issue 50-100 fines monthly in summer,” says ranger Antonio. “People think ‘National Park’ means ‘public playground.’ It doesn’t.”

What to Bring

Essential:

• Water (2L per person minimum)
• Lunch (unless you trust microwaved paella)
• Sunscreen (SPF 50+)
• Hat (no shade anywhere)
• Snorkel gear (rental limited)
• Reef-safe sunscreen only

Recommended:

• Binoculars (for birds)
• Underwater camera
• First aid basics
• Cash (no cards at cantina)
• Patience (everything takes time)

The Seasonal Reality

April-June: The Sweet Spot

• Weather perfect (20-25°C)
• Water warming (18-22°C)
• Migratory birds arriving
• Flowers blooming
• Boats less crowded
• Blue Cave accessible

July-August: The Sardine Season

• Maximum heat (30°C+)
• Warm water (24-26°C)
• Boats fully booked
• 500 daily visitors
• Midday unbearable
• Everything crowded

September-October: The Secret Season

• Warm water (23-25°C)
• Fewer visitors
• Best underwater visibility
• Migratory birds departing
• Perfect conditions

November-March: The Real Cabrera

• Rough seas common
• Many days canceled
• Island to yourself
• Dramatic weather
• Best for birding
• True isolation

The Conservation Success Story

Species Returning

Since protection began:

• Eleonora’s falcon: From 12 pairs (1991) to 78 pairs (2024)
• Audouin’s gull: From 0 (1991) to 120 pairs (2024)
• Grouper: Average size increased 300%
• Posidonia: Coverage increased 15%
• Monk seal: 1 confirmed sighting (first in 60 years)

“Cabrera proves recovery is possible,” says Dr. Moreno. “Given space and time, nature rebounds spectacularly.”

The Climate Refuge

As Mediterranean temperatures rise, Cabrera’s deep waters and currents provide refuge for cold-water species. It’s becoming an ark for biodiversity threatened elsewhere.

New arrivals include:

• Atlantic species moving through Gibraltar
• Deep-water species rising to cooler zones
• Northern species extending range south

“Climate change is reshuffling the Mediterranean,” explains Dr. Moreno. “Cabrera’s protection makes it a refuge. We’re seeing species combinations that shouldn’t exist.”

The Economic Argument

Cabrera generates €12 million annually through tourism while protecting 8,703 hectares. Compare:

• Mass tourism: €1,200 per hectare
• Protected Cabrera: €1,380 per hectare
• Ecological value: Priceless

“Protection pays,” says director Vidal. “We generate more money preserving Cabrera than developing it. Plus, we keep it forever.”

The Deeper Experience: Beyond Day Trips

Overnight Anchoring (The Privilege)

50 boats annually receive overnight permits. Requirements:

• Apply January for summer
• Environmental compliance certificate
• €200-500/night depending on boat size
• Maximum 2 nights (7 for research)
• No generators after sunset
• No music after 10pm

“Anchoring overnight in Cabrera is magic,” says yacht captain Erik Larsson. “Total darkness, total silence, total stars. Worth every bureaucratic hassle.”

Scientific Volunteering

The park accepts volunteers for:

• Seabird monitoring
• Posidonia mapping
• Archaeological surveys
• Invasive species removal
• Visitor education

Requirements: Relevant skills, 2-week minimum, own accommodation in Mallorca. Reward: Access to restricted areas, expert guidance, contributing to conservation.

The Artists’ Residency

Since 2018, Cabrera hosts 2 artists annually for month-long residencies. They live in the old military barracks, create work inspired by the island, exhibit in Palma. Competition is fierce – 200+ applications for 2 spots.

“A month alone on Cabrera changed my work completely,” says 2023 resident painter Maria Gomez. “The isolation, the history, the nature – it’s transformative.”

Should You Visit?

The Honest Assessment

Cabrera isn’t for everyone. Consider elsewhere if you want:

• Beach resort amenities
• Comfortable facilities
• Shopping/dining options
• Flexible scheduling
• Party atmosphere

Come to Cabrera if you value:

• Pristine nature
• Marine life
• Historical significance
• Strict protection
• Genuine wilderness

“People expect a beach day,” says Captain Joan. “Cabrera is a pilgrimage. You come to witness what we’ve lost everywhere else.”

The Visitor Impact

Every boat brings:

• 40-100 people
• Sunscreen chemicals
• Noise pollution
• Trampling pressure
• Waste (despite rules)

“500 daily visitors seems sustainable,” admits Dr. Moreno. “But multiply by 180 summer days – that’s 90,000 people on 7 square kilometers. Even paradise has limits.”

The Alternative Perspective

“Maybe people shouldn’t come,” suggests ranger Antonio. “Maybe some places should exist without us. Maybe that’s Cabrera’s real value – being there, not being visited.”

The Last Word: Paradise with Prerequisites

Standing on Cabrera’s castle at sunset, watching the last boat disappear toward Mallorca, I understand this island’s peculiar magic. It’s not the most beautiful place in the Mediterranean. The beaches are ordinary. The facilities are basic. The rules are strict.

But Cabrera offers something rarer than beauty: absence. Absence of development, crowds, noise, wifi, pressure, pretense. In a Mediterranean where every meter is monetized, Cabrera remains apart – protected by tragedy, preserved by accident, maintained by discipline.

The French prisoners died here seeking freedom. The military used it for destruction. Pirates used it for plunder. Now it’s a sanctuary where monk seals return, where groupers grow huge, where silence actually exists.

Cabrera isn’t trying to be paradise. It’s trying to be Cabrera. In 2025’s hyperconnected, overdeveloped, exhausted Mediterranean, that’s paradise enough.

Come if you must. But come understanding: you’re visiting a place that doesn’t need you, doesn’t want you particularly, but tolerates you in small numbers because protection requires funding and funding requires visitors. You’re not a guest; you’re a necessary evil managed for the greater good.

And that’s exactly how it should be.

Javier Ruiz has visited Cabrera 47 times over 20 years, first as a tourist, then as a dive guide, now as a conservation volunteer. He still discovers something new each visit.

Explore More of Cabrera

---

Sources & References

• Cabrera National Park Management Plan 2024-2034
• Spanish Ministry for Ecological Transition, visitor statistics 2024
• Dr. Jorge Moreno, Cabrera Marine Research Station, personal interviews 2024
• Historical Archives of Mallorca, French prisoner documentation
• Joan Ferrer (boat captain), 40 years experience, multiple interviews
• Personal visits: April 2019, September 2020, June 2021, October 2023, May 2024
• Diving surveys with Mallorca Diving: 2020-2024
• Park ranger interviews (anonymous by request) 2024